<p>Through jet-lagged eyes, an unlikely metropolis appears as you are peddled away ba a bicycle-led rickshaw. Your driver is taking you through a universe of politeness where lace curtains and doilies, scented powders and upright pianos wade in the fragrances of cardamom and cumin. All the while, almonds, pistachios, saffron and cinnamon cure the woes of travel.</p>